Celebrating my best pals birthday was just a dream.
My best pals birthday in superb surroundings .
France’s Dordogne is no stranger to charm, but this tiny wine-soaked village might just be its best-kept secret
By Steven Smith
Five days in a southwest French village left me sun-warmed, wine-softened, and wondering how I’d lived this long without knowing Saussignac existed. This is rural France at its most painterly — all rolling vineyards, candlelit dinners, and the slow thrum of a life well-lived.
The Birthday That Changed Everything
When my best friend invited me away for her birthday, I braced for Dubai. Maybe Ibiza. Somewhere loud and expensive, where my idea of a lie-in would be drowned out by basslines and foam cannons.
Instead, she said, “Saussignac.”
The name meant nothing to me — until an artist friend described it as “wines of the gods, food like nectar, and a village so pretty it could be in a Merchant Ivory film.” He added, with a wink, “Some hotels feel like art galleries — all taste, style, and warmth.”
Two weeks later, we were landing at Bergerac Airport, a dinky 1960s gem that could double as a film set. In 10 minutes, we were in the hire car. In 20, we were in another world.
“Darling, you don’t do anything there. You immerse yourself in beauty.”
First Glimpse of a Slower Life
The drive was a moving painting: rolling vineyards, fields of wildflowers, terracotta-tiled farmhouses unchanged for centuries. Every curve of the road offered a new gasp-worthy view.
My Secret Sanctuary
While the rest of the party checked into the lively hub of the village, I chose a private B&B run by Dutch hostess Ingrid Leenders.
Her place is a pocket of peace: rustic gardens, a tiled pool, and rooms with open-plan bathrooms (romantics, take note). No TV, but strong Wi-Fi, a coffee machine, and a small fridge. Each morning at seven sharp, breakfast appeared — fresh bread, cheeses, eggs, and orange juice.
Ingrid herself? A doll. Always ready with tips, and never in the way.
Meanwhile, my friends took over Le 1500, a 12th-century building transformed into a boutique haven by retired businessman-turned-artist 58 year old Michael F. Rumsby and his husband, Lee McNeal.
Every room is a curated mix of antiques and art. A history room and library invite slow afternoons. Outside, the walled garden hides a pool, bar, and dining terrace that in summer becomes an event space — open-air films, long-table dinners, and the infamous Bad Boys Burger Night.
Our first evening was spent at Mélange, a family-run restaurant with stone walls, castle views, and a menu that changes weekly. Owners Melanie and Charlie are culinary magicians — especially for those of us with “difficult” diets. My pescatarian self and vegan friends were both spoiled.
If I ever marry, it will be at Château Lestevenie.
Owners Petrie and Jaco, both South Africans trained in the Stellenbosch winelands, host Summer Soirées so perfect they feel scripted: live jazz, vineyard sunsets, and rotating menus of Mexican, Indian, and French cuisine — all paired with their own sparkling Lestevenie Brut.
Just a short stroll from the village, Château Fayolle offers 130 acres of vines and woodland, plus terrace lunches that must be pre-ordered.
Wine here is history: since 1254, Saussignac and Bergerac bottles have graced Europe’s finest tables. Today, owners Frank and Riki Campbell are taking it global.
Some in our group opted for Château des Vigiers — a blend of fairways, fine dining, and château glamour between Bergerac and Saint-Émilion. It’s home to a championship golf course, a Michelin-starred restaurant, and a choice between historic suites or sleek relais rooms.
Saussignac isn’t about ticking off sights. It’s about strolling past shuttered stone houses, tasting wine under vine-laced terraces, and lingering until the sky blushes.
Bring a car — taxis are rare and expensive. Pre-book meals and flag any dietary quirks in advance. And then? Let the place work its quiet magic.
“By the end of the week my body was lighter, my mind calmer, my soul recharged.”
If You Go
Best time to visit: May–September for warm evenings and vineyard events. Getting there: British Airways (London City) and Ryanair (Stansted) fly direct to Bergerac. Car hire essential. Don’t miss: Mélange for dinner, Château Lestevenie’s Summer Soirée, Château Fayolle’s terrace lunch. Pack for: Lazy afternoons, lingering dinners, and the urge to never leave.
It was hard not to stifle a chuckle when I spotted the old familiar sign on the London Underground: “DO NOT STARE.”Really? How is it even possible to avoid making eye contact—no matter how hard you try—when there’s a man across from you mining his nose with such vigour that you worry his fingers might pop out through his eyeball? Or that couple in the corner, so utterly absorbed in each other that you’re not quite sure where to look—especially when she takes a break from kissing to slide her tongue into his ear. lets not start on ” If you see something that does not look right please report it ”
But that’s London for you. A glorious, bustling, cosmopolitan city teeming with people from every walk of life, each more stylish or eccentric than the last. The Tube isn’t just a means of transportation—it’s a rolling reality show. Every trip, every change of line, brings a new cast of characters and a fresh episode of human theatre.
Personally, I’ve always loved the art of people-watching. Airports were once my favourite stage. I’d arrive early just for the chance to observe humanity in transit. Back when loudspeakers used to blare out dramatic announcements—“Mrs Jones, please come to Desk Seven. You have an urgent message.” I never followed to see who Mrs Jones was, but oh, how my imagination ran wild. Maybe she was running away with a lover who’d had a sudden change of heart. Maybe she was being lured back to a secret double life. Most likely, it was something terribly dull—but still, it was enough to get the mental movie reels spinning.
Imagination has always been my saving grace. It’s carried me through life’s best and worst moments. The joy of observing life and its never-ending cast of characters continues to fuel me. As Shakespeare said: “All the world’s a stage, and all the men and women merely players; They have their exits and their entrances, And one man in his time plays many parts.”
But let’s return to the Underground, which has been whisking Londoners beneath the city’s streets since 1863. That “DO NOT STARE” sign, upon closer inspection, had smaller print I hadn’t noticed before: “INTRUSIVE STARING OF A SEXUAL NATURE IS SEXUAL HARASSMENT AND IS NOT TOLERATED.” Fair point—and an important one.
Over a decade ago, I interviewed twelve Page 3 models about their experiences with dating and sex. Shockingly—but sadly not surprisingly—every single one of them had experienced some form of sexual harassment on the Tube. From groping in crowded carriages to lingering, uncomfortable touches during rush hour, it was a grim reminder of the darker side of commuting. Everyone deserves to travel safely, without fear of violation or discomfort.
Yes, let’s stamp out intrusive behaviour. But while we’re putting up signs, how about a few more reminders—common courtesies that could make life better for all of us packed into those rolling metal sausages?
Here’s my updated list of suggested announcements for the London Underground, to be posted right alongside “DO NOT STARE”:
Uncross your legs. No one wants your muddy footprint on their trousers when the train jerks to a stop.
Remove your backpack. Place it between your feet—don’t swing it around like a medieval weapon during rush hour.
Move your bags. That seat is not reserved for your handbag. Let others sit down.
Offer your seat. A little kindness never goes out of fashion. If you see someone elderly, pregnant, or visibly struggling, give up your seat. Don’t pretend to be engrossed in your phone or suddenly blind. But again… DO NOT STARE.
Leave the snacks at home. This isn’t the Orient Express. No one wants to arrive smelling like a bucket of fried chicken or a spicy chow mein from Mr Wok.
Escalator etiquette matters. DO NOT stop dead at the top to check your phone or sort your shopping. Move clear—or risk being shoved, bumped, or bruised.
If someone touches you inappropriately, report it immediately. We all have a right to feel safe.
London’s Underground is legendary around the world for good reason. It’s fast, far-reaching, and, if you ask me, oddly charming. Yes, the fares could be more reasonable—please, Sadiq Khan, no more price hikes—but it remains one of the most efficient and fascinating ways to travel.
So let’s respect it. Let’s love it. And let’s all do our bit to keep the journey pleasant for everyone.
And remember—DO NOT STARE. Even if that Colin Farrell lookalike in rugby shorts gets on at Clapham.
To many, I might seem like the life and soul of the party, but in reality, I’m quite shy. Outside the familiar setting of events and friends’ parties, the thought of going to bars or clubs fills me with anxiety and dread. Like many, I want to meet new people, try new things, and expand my social horizons. After the passing of my former partner, I’ve struggled more than I care to admit—even to those closest to me.
Saturday nights are usually spent writing or watching a box set, feeling safe in my own space. But this year, I resolved to change that. The question was: how?
2Shades agony aunt Heidi Gammon suggested that instead of heading to the buzzy clubs and bars of Soho and Vauxhall, I should try something different. My tastes have always been eclectic, so I took her up on the challenge.
It wasn’t long before I found the perfect option—one that ticked all the boxes: a wine tasting with dinner. Of course, I couldn’t go alone, so I brought along 2Shades beauty editor Clare Mc Sweeney and her beloved teddy bear coat (don’t worry, no teddy bears were harmed in the making of it!).
The wine tasting was hosted at one of London’s most talked-about galleries—Firepit. Located on the Greenwich Peninsula, right by the banks of the Thames, Firepit is an experimental and forward-thinking artist collective, making it the perfect setting for an evening of culture, conversation, and, of course, fine wine.
Held on the last Saturday of each month, the wine-tasting masterclass is hosted by former restaurateur and sommelier “Charlie” Young, a man renowned for his deep knowledge and infectious passion for wine. Charlie’s reputation precedes him—his expertise is matched only by his ability to make learning about wine both engaging and thoroughly enjoyable.
Doors open at 5:30 PM, giving guests a half-hour to settle in, mingle, and explore the gallery’s latest exhibitions before the tasting officially begins at 6:00 PM. The setting itself—Firepit, a cutting-edge artist collective on the Greenwich Peninsula—adds an extra layer of creativity and intrigue to the evening.
Charlie pours the wine and chats .
Now, if you’ve ever attended a wine tasting where the host droned on endlessly, more focused on their own cleverness than on making the experience enjoyable, you might be wary. I’ve been there. In fact, I once attended a tasting where even my endlessly patient and sophisticated friend finally snapped, exclaiming, “FOR F—’S SAKE, JUST POUR IT!”
Thankfully, Charlie’s approach was the complete opposite. He made a point of ensuring the evening was lighthearted, interactive, and fun—without ever compromising on substance. He didn’t just educate; he entertained. And judging by the lively atmosphere in the room, he had a gift for bringing together a wonderfully diverse and genuinely lovely group of people.
The tasting featured six carefully selected wines, each with its own story and character. Gallery owner Marcus Jake was also on hand, standing by with a bucket for those who wished to spit or discard their samples—though, let’s be honest, few took him up on that offer. His primary role for the evening? Acting as Charlie’s glamorous assistant, which, in reality, mostly involved keeping everyone’s glasses generously topped up.
The wine tasting flies by in just over an hour, but the evening doesn’t end there. Charlie stays on for the dinner portion, offering expert advice on wine pairings and sharing fascinating insights in his signature engaging style.
Dinner is served in the gallery itself, creating a relaxed and sociable atmosphere. Guests—many of whom started the evening as strangers—naturally connect over a two-course meal, exchanging thoughts on the wines, the artwork, and life in general. The sense of camaraderie is undeniable, making it feel more like an intimate dinner party than a formal event.
2Shades Clare Mc Sweeney and Annemarie Bickerton with friends join the fun https://www.firepit.art
For those who prefer just the wine tasting experience, tickets are available separately, with no obligation to stay for dinner. However, gallery curator Matthew warmly encourages guests to linger, explore the artwork, and enjoy another drink at their leisure.
“We want people to experience the gallery, to feel at home in the space,” Marcus explains. “That’s why we keep ticket prices as low as possible. The wine tastings and dinners have been a real success, bringing people together in a way that feels effortless and enjoyable.”
And a success it certainly was. 2Shades will definitely be back.
Date and time
Saturday, April 26 · 6 – 10:30pm GMT+1. Doors at 6pm
Regional French Wine Masterclass with optional two-course dinner
An informal and exciting wine masterclass featuring six premium wines from the Loire Valley, Madiran in the Southwest, the Rhone Valley and Provence. Presented byVinotecafounder Charlie Young
There are two tickets:
Masterclass £16.50 per person, 6:00pm to 7:15pm
Two-course dinner £16.50 per person, 7:30pm to 10:30pm
Communal two-course dinner, with glasses or bottles of the wines featured in the Masterclass from £6 per glass
Regional French Wine Masterclass with Charlie Young
Anjou Blanc ‘Large Soif!’ 2020 – Terra Vita Vinum, Anjou, Loire (white)
Chinon Clos de la Bonneliere 2020 – Chateau de la Bonneliere, Chinon, Loire (red)
Pacherenc du Vic Bilh Sec 2021 – Domaine Laplace, Madiran, South West
Madiran ‘Aydie l’Origine’ 2021 – Domaine Laplace, Madiran, South West
Côtes du Rhone Vieilles Vignes 2018 – Famille Gras, Rhone South
Coteaux de Béziers Chardonnay Prestige 2022 – Chateau Preignes Le Neuf, Provence
Two-Course Dinner
Main course
Cider-braised roast ham hock with Jersey potatoes and spring peas
Dessert
Hot cross bun bread & butter pudding
Vegetarian/vegan options available on request
All masterclass wines available to buy by-the-glass or bottle
A Note from Firepit.
We have a challenge 25 policy. So please bring ID that proves you are over 18, if you are lucky enough to look under 25!
Masterclass starts at 6:00pm, you are welcome to come earlier and enjoy the gallery space.
2Shades Magazine 